Over three weeks ago, on Good Friday, I left Wellington for
a 17 day trek exploring the South Island over our fall break. It was the longest, independent trip
like this I have ever gone on, I rode the Magic Bus mostly, hiked for 7 days,
and did a little hitch hiking to fill in the gaps. The Magic bus is a tour company that runs multi-day,
multi-bus loops and pass-holders can get on and off the loops at their leasure,
staying where they please. I hiked
over 120km in those 7 days on two different tracks, and traveled almost 2100km
in total. I met people from all
over the world, and made friends from Sweden, Norway, Germany, Minnesota, South
Carolina, the UK, Israel, and France.
I also ran into several friends from Wellington on different occasions,
and it was nice not to be on my own the entire time. Among other things I jumped off a bridge to plummet over 43
meters at the historic birth place of the bungee jump, walked on a glacier, and
had a camping slipper stolen by an aggressive Weka bird, New Zealand’s bush
hen.
On Good Friday I rode the Ferry west from Wellington, across
Cook Straight to land in the small town of Picton. Saturday I started the Queen-Charlotte track, a 70km track
in the Marlborough Sounds of New Zealand’s south island. It’s a one-way trail so I hired a
water-taxi so drop me at the start, walking west past beaches, bays, and along
small mountain ridges over the water.
The weather was clear and perfect, I had 4 days of sun and warm
breezes. The track took me 3 full
days with a very full pack, you must boil your own water and tents were the
only camping option. My last night
on the trail I set up camp beach-side only to be attacked by sand flies and a
nosey Weka bird. It was looking
for food but decided to steal one of my travel slippers I had been using around
camp- I never got it back. The
following day, Tuesday, I hiked the remaining few miles to the trailhead and
then hitched 2 rides the 40km back to Picton. Upon arrival several hours later
I cleaned and repacked at a hostel, and the next day caught the magic bus a
short way to Nelson. Great
hostel that night, or backpackers as they’re called here. I met some friends from Wellington and
rode with them down the coast that day to Greymouth. Our backpackers was more like a classy B&B, high
ceilings and nice furnishings, etc.
The next morning was Friday, start of week II, and I got the
magic bus to Franz Joesf Glacier.
We arrived just before lunch so I hitched the few km from town to the
glacier. It was beautiful, and
valley was massive and very pretty as well. That night I met my wellington friends again and dried my
boots by a warm wood stove.
Saturday we rode by picturesque mirror-lakes, with beaufitul reflective
vistas of Mounts Cook and Tasmen.
We arrived in Wanaka at sunset; the beginning of fiordland and some of
the most stunning terrain I’ve ever seen- even if the driver of our bus
neglected to tell me the backpackers he booked me at was full. I wandered around and finally found a
place with an empty bed. Sunset
over the lake was colorful and that night after dinner I met friends from the
magic bus. Sunday we rode the
short ways to Wanaka, past an old historic bridge where the first ever
bungee-jump took place. They
showed us a video about the creators and the history behind its creating in the
late 80’s, and in the end I was convinced to do it. It was incredible- well
worth it and I was on a natural high for the rest of the day. We got into Queenstown by lunch, I
repacked and bought a map, fuel and alpine hut passes, and by 1:00 I was
standing just north of Queenstown on the way up Lake Wakatipu. I was in 40km north in Glenorchy by
mid-afternoon with time to explore the hamlet of Glenorchy. With a population of 200 and stunning
views north to the Rees and Dart valleys and rivers, it is easily the most
beautiful place I have ever been.
Both rivers flow into either sides of the very north tip of Lake
Wakatipu, creating a massive river delta with two large braided rivers. My next hike would bring me 25km up the
Rees Valley, over a saddle, and
then 35km back down the Dart Valley. This track was one of the more difficult trips I’ve done and
by far the most breath-taking.
Alpine terrain might be one of my favorite landscapes with massive
valley flats, boulder fields, and massive towering jagged peaks, in places 900m
above the valley floor. In all it
took me 3 days, I combined the last 2 days plus the ride 40 min back to
Glenorchy and then an hour to Queenstown all in the last day, I walked over
30km to be able to spend an extra night, Wednesday, in Queenstown. It was worth it- it has such an upbeat and fun vibe, I ran into
other wellington friends unexpectedly on Thursday and spent all and night with
them, ending week II.
Friday I took a bus to the famed Milfod Sound. Although extremely beautiful and worth
it, I think it was a bit over rated.
The next day I took the Magic bus to Dunedin, explored the city a while
and visited the Cadbury chocolate factory for a tour and cup of liquid
chocolate. Sunday we left for
scenic Lake Tekapo. Our
backpackers was very homey and nice but a short walk from the small town of
Lake Tekapo. Monday, after the
most beautiful sunrise I’ve ever been up for, we rode to Christchurch and
arrived at the airport by lunch.
My flight was not until 8:00 but I had little motivation to pay my way
all the way back into the city, lugging my bags. I waited the 8 hours and finally boarded a plane back to
Wellington. I caught a ride with
the ma I sat next to on the plane back into town and walked back to my flat, to
arrive late Monday evening and after 18 days on the road, I was glad to be
back.
